Let's build a wooden plate rack for the dining nook with a few special details!
I have been wanting to build a plate rack for this space for quite some time now but between being pregnant, having a baby, and life with our boys too, it just sat on the back burner.
Here is what you'll need to make your own, based off a 40"x43"plate rack
Supplies
4 -1x4x6
1- 1x3x6
2-1x2x6
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
1 1/2 inch Brad nails
Wood glue
Combined Early American and Weathered Oak Stains
White Wash
Old cotton tshirt to apply stain and white wash
Stain and/or white wash is up to you!
Tools Used
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Orbital Sander
Scroll Saw
Nail Gun
Air Compressor
Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
2 Power Drills (1 for drilling/1 for driving)
Level
Supplies and Tools can vary depending on the size and look you're going for!
Making your cuts
Now, this is totally up to you and how big you want to have your plate rack, but here's how I did my cuts based off the size that I needed.
I started with the outer frame, using 1x4x6s because I already had them for a different project that I decided not to do right now. However, 1x4x8s or 1x4x10s would also work.
I wanted to miter my corners at the bottom but you can just do butt joints and I think that would also look just as pretty!
The last thing I had to cut were the little strips for the shelf rails. I broke out the table saw and ripped the end off a 1x4 at about 1/2 an inch thick.
Sanding
I wanted this piece to have a cottage feel but not look too rustic. So sanding it until it was buttery smooth and polished was key.
I went over every piece thoroughly with 80 grit, then 120, and finished with 220
The last cuts I had to make were with my scrollsaw. I wanted the rails to be inset and sit flush with the sides of the plate rack. I used my Delta 20" variable speed scrollsaw to cut out little notches in the sides
I cut in on the sides first, then sliced a diagonal. Next I rotated the wood to cut out the bottom/inside piece of the notch.
I also wanted to round the tops of the end/side pieces so I used a bowl to trace the curve.
Then I used my Delta Scrollsaw again to cut the curve and then sanded it smooth with my orbital sander.
Assembly
Once everything was finally cut and sanded, I used my Kreg pocket hole jig to add all the pocket holes. I did pocket holes on the back of the wood and on the inside/top so that they wouldn't be visible from below.
Then, I assembled the whole thing with wood glue and brad nails before screwing it together.
Once it was all attached I secured all the boards together tightly with 1.25" pocket hole screws.
Wood filler + Stain + Whitewash
The last part of this project consisted of filling all holes and cracks between boards with wood filler, sanding that off with 220 grit, staining, and then whitewashing.
Here is what the wood filler looks like after you sand and stain.
I used equal parts of Early American and Weathered Oak combined for the stain color and let that dry overnight before applying white wash.
The last step was using Minwax white wash in a diluted 1:1 ration with water
Hanging + final look!
To hang this, I just used heavy duty D rings on the top of the side pieces. I hung them from two screws, 1 in a heavy duty anchor and the other side lined up with a stud. I also used command strips on the bottom shelf piece to keep it from coming of the wall.
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